The Kim Dress in Floral Print….. aka Outfit Along 2017

Adding to my better late than never category- I give you my completed outfit for the 2017 Outfit Along!!

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You’ll recall that I finished the sweater portion (a slate blue Miette) of this reasonably close to the deadline…..but never even started on the dress! :-/
Well after finishing this year’s OAL, I decided there was no time like the present to tackle last year’s OAL 😉

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I made the suggested pattern- the Kim Dress from By Hand London.  This was my first time using a By Hand London pattern.  The one hitch I discovered was that they ONLY offer pdf patterns 😦  Because I hate printing and taping pdf patterns I did some research and pricing and ultimately paid to have it printed large format….. y’all this is a game changer for me!

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I used pdf plotting. They were cheap, much more reasonably priced than the local FedEx print center, but you will may need to have a minimum order (I think I got 3 or 4 printed out at once, but I don’t see anything about minimum orders on their site now).  And they were reasonably fast, not the instant gratification of printing it out right now, but reasonable.  I’ve also noticed they’ve greatly expanded the directions and information on pattern printing since last year- which is awesome!
It does take the price to basically the cost of a printed pattern, but for me it’s worth it…. did I mention I hate taping???

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I did a bit of franken patterning and made the bodice from Variation 1 and the full skirt from Variation 2.  I started out by muslining the bodice and cutting this in a straight size 14, and that’s when the FUN began…. and by fun I mean total frustration and swearing!! I got so excited about the pattern, the dress, and the fabric it some how never occurred to me…. By Hand London is drafted for a B cup…. I am a DD (pushing a DDD)!!

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I ended up making FOUR muslins!!  I relied heavily on the Kim Dress sewalong, specifically the post on Full Bust Adjustments with princess seams.  I can’t find it now, but after two muslins I read a blog post from another blogger who discussed that if the difference between the Full and High bust is enough you should base the size you cut on your High bust and then adjust accordingly.  This proved the be just the advice I needed to prevent me from throwing EVERYTHING, so thank you nameless blogger!  This post from the Curvy Sewing Collective gives the same advice and provides a very handy reference for which pattern companies draft for what bust- spoiler it’s mostly B cup 😦

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At the end of the day, I made a size 10 bodice with a 2″(!) FBA, graded to a size 12 at the waist, with 1/2 inch added to the center.  The skirt stayed a standard size 12, because nobody needs to fit a full skirt!

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Although… I did end up making a few adjustments to the skirt…. Firstly, there’s probably about 3 to 4 inches of fullness taken out of the skirt because I didn’t have enough fabric 😦  I also left out the pintucks, because I figured they would get lost in the pattern.  And finally, I added POCKETS!!  Because what’s the point of a full skirt if you don’t have pockets!  Unfortunately, I did forget about them when attaching the skirt so they don’t exactly line up with the side seams…. but… eh…. whose counting 😉

There’s still some minor adjustments I may try for next time…..

  1.  I will probably try for a size 10 waist and skirt, things were surprisingly a bit loose at the mid section (FYI: based on the muslin I was afriad it would be too small!).
  2.  Maybe try to actually do a sway back?  I’m increasingly wondering if this should be an adjustment to try out…
  3.  Add some of those bra strap hold-y things….. Unless I stand exactly just so they start to peak out from behind the straps…. as evidenced in these photos!

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The fabric is a really lovely light cotton- maybe cotton lawn?  I fell in love with the pattern- kinda fall colors, but with a springy motif!
As with all my super nice fabrics I got it from Mulberry Silks 🙂 I was nervous at first it would be a bit through at the skirt, I actually bought extra lining fabric (just a light cotton blend from Jo-ann’s) to make a slip, as it turned out it wasn’t necessary!

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All in all, I’m really digging this Kim dress!  The fabric is just right and I think with a couple more tweaks to the fit it can become a real staple….. part of me wants to go crazy and try for a sequin party dress!
And with that I not only finished an Outfit Along, but also ticked off my 6th item in the 2018 Make Nine challenge!!

 

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Outfit Along 2018…. Finished Objects!

It’s official I finished the Outfit Along….. a month late….but I finished 🙂

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I stuck very true to the Outfit Along and made the suggested True Bias Lander Pants…. or in my case shorts… and knit the Waters top.

I’ll start with the shorts…

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This was my first time using a True Bias pattern and I was SUPER pleased with it!  I cut a size __ and it pretty much fit right out of the envelope….which never happens!!  I’ve had the chance to wear them a few times and I may want to adjust the crotch depth the next time I make them, but that may be partially due to my fabric choices (see below!).
I used the Lander Sewalong extensively and it proved quite helpful!  I also used Lladybird’s method for the belt loops, which was much easier than the tube turning mess.

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Now while the fit was more or less fantastic I may have messed up on the fabric 😦  I used the discount code and bought Robert Kaufman Brussels Washer Linen in Navy from The Confident Stitch.  The fabric is really nice…..but has a tendency to bag out (and wrinkle, but it is still a linen) and was really probably not the best for these more structured shorts.  Which I have just now realized they specifically warned about in the description <facepalm>  When I remake them I’ll probably do it in a nice twill 🙂

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Now I did take this up a notch by using really special buttons…. so special in fact I will probably move them on to the new pair of shorts when I re-make them.  These buttons came from my Grandpa’s Navy uniform who served during World War II!  My Mom gave me an old box labeled “Navy Buttons” and I found these among the more obvious eagle and anchor Navy buttons.  I know his actual uniform was destroyed in a flood, but I think someone may have gone through and cut all the buttons off it before tossing it.   I can’t tell what they’re made of, but they are quite solid and sturdy. [FYI: They got really blown out in these photos, the true color is closer to the outdoor shots- kinda of a linen/off white.]

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Now on to the top!  I was originally planning on making Zinone (even had yarn & color scheme picked out), but when Andi released Waters and it was on sale…. I immediately changed plans! [Also, I FINALLY actually bought one of her patterns and so can stop feeling guilty about being a freeloader.]

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This was a fairly easy pattern to follow.  I thought I was going to have a hard time remembering to switch colors for the stripe pattern, but that was actually super easy!  I knit it in a size Large and the fit is very good.  As always, I went up a size on my needles to a size 4 to get the right gauge….. of course that was only after I bought the size 3 needles 😦

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I used Lindy Chain yarn, because it was a lot cheaper than the suggested yarn, in Navy and Mist.  It wasn’t the original combination I wanted, but I think I actually like it better then the original Navy/Linen combo (they were out of Linen when I ordered).
The only issue I have so far discovered is that despite the linen/cotton yarn and the short sleeves this is still a sweater and it gets HOT!!  I walked around the historical Tree Streets neighborhood with a friend to get these pictures and by the end I was sweating up a storm! (or glisten- as a proper British woman once told me “Ladies do not sweat, they glisten”)

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Overall, I’m quite pleased with the outfit…. and the fact that I actually finished the Outfit Along!!  I will definitely be remaking the shorts in a better fabric…. and probably give the pants a shot too 🙂

And BONUS- this will fulfill two from my Make Nine challenge!!  Knit a sweater (check) and I’m going to count my shorts as my Wild Card (double check)!  That brings me to five down 😀  Woohoo- over 50% complete!!

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Don’t let the fall decorations fool you…. it was hot!

Works in Progress: A Big Update

Whew! It has been a serious hot minute…..like two months hot minute!!  Let me catch you up on everything…..I went to D.C. for a work conference, kinda at the last minute:

I found a LYS mere minutes from our hotel and bought awesome stuff 😀   ….and I also attended workshops and did work stuff 😉

I then almost immediately turned around and went to Sewcation!!! At the beach this year on Pawley’s Island 😀

Work has been CRAZY this summer…. every year I imagine all the free time I’ll have to sew and work on projects…. and inevitably every year it seems to be crazy!

BUT between all that and especially at Sewcation I’ve been madly working away on my projects for the Outfit Along(s)!!

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I have actually finished my Lander shorts by the deadline!! *Cue the celebratory music*  I will talk about them more in a future post….because unfortunately…. my Waters did not make it in time 😦

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Speaking of the Outfit Along….. I’ve finally gotten started on the Kim Dress!!

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Yes, over a year late, but I’m hoping to actually finish the Outfit Along 2017 before it gets too cold to wear this somewhat summer-y dress….. I epitomize the saying better late than never 😉

…..and with that I leave you with a picture of El supervising some cutting…. she is quite the task master:

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Outfit Along 2018!

Yes! Despite only getting half-way through last years Outfit Along I’m giving it another go!
….also…. I had meant to get this up at the beginning of June, but that obviously didn’t happen…. so, uh…. things aren’t looking so good for this year either 😦

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But I will tell you about what I’m making, even if it’s doomed for failure!  The suggested patterns for this years Outfit Along are the knitted linen top Waters by Andi Satterlund and the Lander Pants & Shorts by True Bias.

I am nothing if not suggestible and so will be doing the Waters top and Lander shorts 🙂

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Despite how the picture looks I’m actually making decent progress on this.  I’m using Lindy Chain in Mist and Navy…. it’s a linen, cotton blend and is a lot cheaper than the suggested yarn.  I’m knitting up a size large and as always had to go up a needle size to get the correct gauge.

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The shorts though are a whole different story :-/  Similar to last year I got everything traced, a muslin cut out….. and then got a bit side tracked….  but, I’m hopeful I can get back on track!  I used the discount code to get some navy washable linen from The Confident Stitch.  I briefly thought about tapping my inner patriot and buying red linen, but decided to go with the more versatile option.

Now, a very small part of the reason not a lot has been done on these is because I was taking my time and working on another pair of bottoms….

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Can you tell what these are??  They’re no where near done and are going on the back burner for a bit, but I basted together my Ginger Jeans!!  A WIP post will follow at some point giving updates on this 🙂

But for now stay tuned and wish me luck with the Outfit Along!

Me Made May 2018- Last Bit!

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Day Twenty-one: My newest Grail/Renfrew smash-up and my wool Zinnia!

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Day Twenty-Two: Spring Moneta

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Day Twenty-three:  Grail t-shirt and Zinnia skirt

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Day Twenty-four:  Peony Dress!

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Day Twenty-five: Deer head Grail t-shirt

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Day Twenty-six: Another hacked Grail t-shirt…. this was taken after a long, booze filled wet day in Asheville with friends 🙂

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Day Twenty-seven: ….. yes… more Grail t-shirts

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Day Twenty-eight: More Peony Dress

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Day Twenty-nine: Grail t-shirt and Zinnia skirt again.

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Day Thirty: Spring Moneta….again

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Day Twenty-nine: Last, but not least seersucker Hawthorne!

And there you have it another Me Made May in the books.  It was filled with repeats and Grail t-shirts, BUT I managed to meet my goal!  I took a picture every day and had only one Me Made Underwear Day 😉  Not too shabby!

Even More Grail T-shirts…..now with more pattern hacking!

Yes!  As promised here are my most recent Grail T-shirt additions…. which have joined their SEVEN other sisters in my closet! …side note…it would’ve been eight, but I’ve some how seemed to have lost one of my bamboo t-shirts  😦 😦

No matter! Check out my new ones!

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Both these shirts were created to replace/replicate beloved RTW shirts that are either too small or just plain worn out….both actually from Banana Republic!

First up we have another Grail/Refrew mashup!

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This is the exact same as my first Grail/Renfrew mashup except in this lovely lilac/grape.  I used a Bamboo jersey, because I’m a sucker for bamboo, in mauve.

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Sadly, I bought this over a year ago from Mood and they are no longer selling this color 😦  Especially, sad since all my co-workers were telling me what a great color it was on me.  However… Mood always has a pretty nice selection of bamboo jersey.

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It’s replacing a lovely cowl-neck short sleeve light sweater thing.  Perfect for Charleston winters, however, sadly quite lacking for East Tennessee winters 😦  Also, if we’re being honest way too small for my current figure!

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I’m wearing it with gray wool Zinnia skirt…. this was probably a bit much for the current weather…but with the AC cranked at work it wasn’t too bad.

Next up we have a completely new pattern hacking!

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So, this is inspired in equal measures by a ballet scoop top I had that I wore until it more or less fell apart and a t-shirt a co-worker had….and the Nettie bodysuit if we’re being honest.

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For the front of the shirt I used the crew neck pattern piece in order to have a somewhat high neckline, but not too high.  In the back I retraced the neck opening to be much lower-  I used the scoop neck pattern piece as a guide.  I also shortened the 3/4 length sleeve to a half sleeve length.

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The fabric is again a black bamboo jersey from Mood.  And while it is a cat hair magnet, I swear it’s not nearly as bad as it looks in some of these photos!

I have notice some issues with the shoulders staying up….but honestly nothing too bad and a lot less than I expected.  I’m always amazed at how people mange to get the SUPER scoop back tops and dresses to stay on…. what’s their secret??? Really good posture? ….magic?? ….double sided tape???

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I’m counting this as my 2nd and 3rd make in the 2018 Make Nine challenge!  Woohoo! 1/3 of the way there 😀

 

 

 

 

 

Me Made May 2018- Week Three

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Day Fourteen- More Grail t-shirts…. (There are so many Grail T-shirts I’m only linking this first one)….I also took this late at night so apologies for the lighting….

 

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Day Fifteen- Yup more Grail t-shirts…. I just finished another hacked version so I’ll hopefully be posting about it and this one.

 

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Day Sixteen- Moneta, I love this version and need another short sleeved one in my life 🙂

 

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Day Seventeen-  Grail t-shirts again, but also my Zinnia skirt 🙂

 

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Day Eighteen- Why, yes I did wear the same shirt I did yesterday…. and no, I do not give a shit 😉

 

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Day Nineteen- My deer head Grail t-shirt

 

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Day Twenty-  …..Aaaand last, but not least, more Grail T-shirts 😉

Me Made May 2018- Week One & Two!

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Day One: This is an as yet unblogged Grail T-shirt….. stay tuned for more details 🙂

 

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Day Two- Another unblogged Grail T-shirt! This one I made last year, just in time for cold weather :-/

 

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Day Three- MORE Grail T-shirts!  You will notice a theme…. we were actually moving offices this week so it was all casual all the time!

 

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Day Four- ….yes, another Grail T-shirt! And back in Charleston for the weekend!

 

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Day Five- My seersucker Hawthrone!  This was taken at my old work… I had come down to see my last group of Cadets graduate 😀

 

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Day Six-  My newest Moneta!  Take on the best porch in Charleston just before heading back to the Mountains 😦

 

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Day Seven- The Violet blouse!  I’ve decided I need to make some tweaks on this pattern before I make another one :-/

 

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Day Eight-  Navy and green Moneta!  Because who doesn’t love navy & green!

 

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Day Nine- Grail T-shirt and Zinna Skirt…. a favorite combination!

 

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Day Ten- My one and only (hopefully) Me Made underwear day! Rocking a pair of Rosy Shorts under there 😉

 

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Day Eleven- My unblogged Peony dress…. I also donated blood!

 

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Day Twelve- This is actually the second Me Made outfit for this day…. the first one got all gross planting our container garden 🙂

 

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Day Thirteen- If you think today’s outfit looks surprisingly similar to yesterdays… you are correct!  I only wore it for like 3 hours yesterday 😉

Works in Progress XIX…. plus Me Made May 2018!

So…. I totally had to look up what 19 was in Roman numerals 😦   I may have to re-think my numbering system….

But at any rate! Here’s what I’ve been working on!

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Unfortunately, in the case of my knitting not only has no progress been made…. there has actually been negative progress!  That’s right mere rows before coming to the end of my cowl I decided I didn’t like my interpretation of the pattern and ripped it almost back to the beginning 😦

I’m trying again to more closely follow the pattern (despite it making NO sense) just to see how it turns out….but, as you can imagine I haven’t really gotten too in to it :-/

HOWEVER! The wheels are turning on a new summer sweater!!

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On the other hand, I’ve been hard at work and have almost completed my ninth and tenth Grail t-shirt!  These ones will both involve some pattern hacking on the original…. and fit in with my Make Nine plan- BONUS!

 

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My Ginger jeans took a bit of a back burner when I decided I wanted the somewhat immediate gratification of a Grail t-shirt….. but I’m hoping to get back to them very soon!

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Which brings us to Me Made May!!  I’ll be participating again…. getting in just under the wire (per usually)….

I, Liz of Liz-o-matic, sign up as a participant of Me-Made-May ’18. I endeavor to wear at least one visible me made item every day for the month of May 2018.

Last year I had a handful of me made underwear days…. this year my goal is to limit it to only one day!  I’m also going to try to be better about getting a photo EVERY day!

Spring Moneta in Art Gallery Print!

I actually started this project last fall. I finished everything except hemming when the weather turned cold….. and then lost any and all interest in finishing it, but with the weather warming back up**… why not?!

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This is my third crack at the Moneta…. and I feel I may have finally worked the kinks out! 😀

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I’ve made a couple more tweaks and adjustments.  The main one, which I feel has helped the fit for me, is I graded the shoulders down to a size M.   This is increasingly becoming a fairly necessary adjustment for me.  I could learn to do a proper narrow shoulder adjustment…. but, eh….. this is working so far 😉

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The other adjustment was finishing the sleeves and neck with a band, a la my beloved Grail t-shirt, as opposed to just turning it under.  I used zigzag stitching throughout- I have given up trying to make friends with the Twin Needle…. it is the devil and I will have no part of it!

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The fabric is an Art Gallery print (I’m pretty sure?) from my local fabric store… every time I go in there it takes all my strength to not walk out with one of each of their knit fabrics!!

Keen eyed observers will notice there is a very subtle direction to the print (one of the flowers has a stem!)…. even keener eyed observes will note that despite being aware of the directionality of the print I still managed to cut one of the skirt panels upside down!  *face palm*  Eh….at least it’s not as bad as upside down deer heads!

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I was stepping a bit outside my comfort zone with this one….not only is it rocking a fairly busy pattern, but it has (just a bit) of neon!!  My firm opinion of neon is it wasn’t a good look in the 80’s/early 90’s and 25-35 years has not improved it!!  ….this actually extends to ALL fashion from that time period- stop trying to bring it back!  *Shakes fist at young teens, before yelling at them to get off my lawn*

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But it must look good on me, because I was getting all the compliments when I wore it out the first time!  Which is good, because I’m pretty sure I have enough leftover to make a t-shirt 😀

 

** These were all LIES- the temperature has dropped and yesterday it actually snowed 😥